There are lots of reasons to avoid Napa – cars, congestion, attitude and expense. But, at the same time, Napa has deservedly developed its reputation as the premiere wine destination in California. Distinct, flavorful chardonnay and world-class cabernet sauvignon are the stars, but many varietals excel in this diverse growing region. 50,000,000 Elvis fans can’t be wrong – and the visiting masses are not wrong here. My suggestions to making your visit enjoyable:
- Call ahead. Many wineries have special tours and behind-the-scenes tastings that require reservations. Don’t just show up and expect a barrel sample of their reserve wines with the winemaker.
- Highway 29 early; Silverado Trail late. Traffic congestion in the afternoon makes Highway 29 a nightmare after about 1 pm, so visit those wineries first. The Silverado Trail makes for an enjoyable drive any time of the day. Start early and drive to the northern end of the valley, then head south. Everyone else will be heading in the opposite direction.
- Avoid tour bus destinations. If the sign out front says “Tour Bus Welcome,” odds are that you won’t be getting the personal attention that makes wine tasting special. If your friend from out-of-town loves Mondavi, by all means take your friend to Mondavi – just set your expectations accordingly.
- Avoid festival weekends. If you want to go to a festival, Napa has lots of them. Personally, I avoid festival weekends since I’m more interested in tasting wine than playing second fiddle to the Napa intelligencia which tend to dominate these events. Since my last name is Plonk, and not [insert fancy winery name here], odds are that I’ll be seated somewhere in back.
- Plan your meals; bring water. Have a few restaurants identified ahead of time, so that you won’t be scavenging for food. I try to identify restaurants near some of the wineries we plan to visit, so that we can remain flexible but keep food within reach. I always bring bottled water and Vanilla wafers (the best palette cleanser ever) for a snack between wineries. Mustards Grill in Yountville has fantastic mid-priced food; the Restaurant at Auberge du Soleil is my favorite for fine dining but can be whoa expensive. Reservations for both are recommended.
- Say “Yes” to Tasting Room Fees. [No, Joe Plonk did not get a lobotomy. Read on.] Over the last few years, fees to taste wine at the top wineries have skyrocketed. What used to be $5 per tasting can now be in the $25 to $30 range and more. After my initial outrage, I realized the happy byproduct of these ridiculous fees were that (i) you got to taste the best wines, (ii) more than 2 ounces of wine were typically poured, (iii) fewer tasting room patrons means a more enjoyable experience, and (iv) they didn’t try and hustle you out the door. I typically splurge on one “expensive” winery per trip where we really relax, spend extra time and enjoy ourselves.
- Pace Yourself. Napa is about the journey. Experience new places and things. Say hello. Turn down the occasional unexplored path, but respect the locals. People do live here. Plan your visit but leave room for spontaneity. If you have one day in Napa, and several wineries that you must visit, drink only reds or whites. You don’t have to try everything they pour, or finish everything poured in your glass. Nobody will be offended if you politely pour out what you don’t want.
And, of course, make sure that you have a designated driver. Napa has rightfully earned its reputation as California’s premiere wine destination. You’ll see.
Happy (Silverado) Trails!
Best, Joe Plonk
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